best lawn mower under 100 image
TheDeco
I am starting a local lawn mowing business 20-30 yards and am wondering what kind/type of mower will i need to get.
I am starting a local lawn mowing business 20-30 yards and am wondering what kind/type of mower will i need to get. I am 16 and am looking to by a truck too. For the lawn mower price range up to $1200. For the truck up to $8000. Also if i were to charge per sq. ft. what is a good unit price?
Answer
If you are planning on starting a lawn business, I assume you plan on making this a long term venture? If this is so, purchasing "cheap" equipment is a No No! If your gonna commit time and effort into doing a good job for your clients, you need to have at least a mid-priced, commercial grade mower, one that will last more than the 2 months you will get by purchasing a cheaper one. 20 - 30 yards a week is alot of wear and tear on the engine, power drive, cables, and pull string as well as the blade shaft. One week of this wear and tear mowing is as much as the normal homeowner would put on a mower in a "years" time. To keep from having to fix this cheaper mower when it breaks down you need a good one. If the mower isn't cutting, you aren't making any money, and not to mention having to deal with a few irate clients complaining that their lawns are looking scraggly and unmowed because you couldn't mow it that week. You need to at least spend $375.00 - $500.00 smackers on a semi-commercial mower. There are many brands that carry heavier built mowers and these include, Honda, Toro, and Snapper. These 3 are my only choices. Check out each brand and make sure you get one with at least 3.5 horsepower with 4.0 - 5.0 being even better yet. Make sure that you get one with a "rear" wheel power drive. The front wheel drives really suck and are hard to keep straight when putting "stripes" and "designs" on the turf. Mowing the tree wells (circle around base of trees) is more difficult as well. Always bag the clippings when mowing. The customer is paying for a clean, manicured yard and that is just what you should provide. Get a quality lawn edger as well. A sharp edge on the walkways and driveway gives that added clean cut appearance after you have left the property. And make sure to blow or sweep off the concrete walks, driveway, and patios of the spent clippings that have been thrown out from under the deck before leaving (this needs to be done lastly). And when you get the mower be sure that it is a 4 cycle engine (straight gas, no mix) it makes for faster and easier work not having to mix oil and gas all the time. Hope this has been helpful and good luck on your new venture. You will get a great sense of accomplishment from this type of work, not to mention a whole bunch of knowledge about turf, trees & shrubs, diseases, and insects. The best part is the $money$ that can be made if you get good at it...
...Added Info: You don't want to charge by the sq.ft. for your services. It's better to charge by each individual property. Naturally, the bigger the square footage of turf, the more you will charge (time is money). The local economy and the type of neighborhoods you will be working in will have alot to do with your price range. Naturally, higher class homes will bring in more cashflow. A standard price would be $100.00 a month for edging, mowing, and blowing off of the property. Tell the customer that you will spend 1 hr a week doing the work, 4 times a month, which comes out to to 4 hrs total work time. Which means that you are working at a $25.00 an hour rate, which is pretty good money for a 16 yr old. This of course, is for an average size yard with around 2,000 sq. ft. of turf. If its less or more you can adjust the price accordingly (up or down).
...$Billy Ray$
If you are planning on starting a lawn business, I assume you plan on making this a long term venture? If this is so, purchasing "cheap" equipment is a No No! If your gonna commit time and effort into doing a good job for your clients, you need to have at least a mid-priced, commercial grade mower, one that will last more than the 2 months you will get by purchasing a cheaper one. 20 - 30 yards a week is alot of wear and tear on the engine, power drive, cables, and pull string as well as the blade shaft. One week of this wear and tear mowing is as much as the normal homeowner would put on a mower in a "years" time. To keep from having to fix this cheaper mower when it breaks down you need a good one. If the mower isn't cutting, you aren't making any money, and not to mention having to deal with a few irate clients complaining that their lawns are looking scraggly and unmowed because you couldn't mow it that week. You need to at least spend $375.00 - $500.00 smackers on a semi-commercial mower. There are many brands that carry heavier built mowers and these include, Honda, Toro, and Snapper. These 3 are my only choices. Check out each brand and make sure you get one with at least 3.5 horsepower with 4.0 - 5.0 being even better yet. Make sure that you get one with a "rear" wheel power drive. The front wheel drives really suck and are hard to keep straight when putting "stripes" and "designs" on the turf. Mowing the tree wells (circle around base of trees) is more difficult as well. Always bag the clippings when mowing. The customer is paying for a clean, manicured yard and that is just what you should provide. Get a quality lawn edger as well. A sharp edge on the walkways and driveway gives that added clean cut appearance after you have left the property. And make sure to blow or sweep off the concrete walks, driveway, and patios of the spent clippings that have been thrown out from under the deck before leaving (this needs to be done lastly). And when you get the mower be sure that it is a 4 cycle engine (straight gas, no mix) it makes for faster and easier work not having to mix oil and gas all the time. Hope this has been helpful and good luck on your new venture. You will get a great sense of accomplishment from this type of work, not to mention a whole bunch of knowledge about turf, trees & shrubs, diseases, and insects. The best part is the $money$ that can be made if you get good at it...
...Added Info: You don't want to charge by the sq.ft. for your services. It's better to charge by each individual property. Naturally, the bigger the square footage of turf, the more you will charge (time is money). The local economy and the type of neighborhoods you will be working in will have alot to do with your price range. Naturally, higher class homes will bring in more cashflow. A standard price would be $100.00 a month for edging, mowing, and blowing off of the property. Tell the customer that you will spend 1 hr a week doing the work, 4 times a month, which comes out to to 4 hrs total work time. Which means that you are working at a $25.00 an hour rate, which is pretty good money for a 16 yr old. This of course, is for an average size yard with around 2,000 sq. ft. of turf. If its less or more you can adjust the price accordingly (up or down).
...$Billy Ray$
Looking for a review of Craftsman LT1000 riding lawn mower?
jason m
I'm thinking of buying one on Craigslist for 550. If you know anything about it that would help me or have any other suggestions for riders 600 or under would be greatly appreciated.
Answer
I bought one early 2004 to mow a 3/4 acre lawn. Back then it was close to $1,100 for a 42" cut, 18.5 HP single cylinder engine with manual transmission. It got an oil change every year & was fine until late last year when oil consumption went wild. It was a bad head gasket. Replacement engines were $700 or more, so after a little research I bought the gasket for $8 and spent a couple of hours doing it myself (a first for me in engine repair, it was nice to have vids on Utube to learn). It runs as good as ever. The mower is on it's 3rd battery... I finally broke down and got a battery tender plugged in for a maintenance charge and that has helped a lot.
So if the mower looks like it hasn't been driven off a cliff, starts easy enough, moves & cuts it's probably going to suit your needs. If it needs parts, that's another story depending what it has to have.
I bought one early 2004 to mow a 3/4 acre lawn. Back then it was close to $1,100 for a 42" cut, 18.5 HP single cylinder engine with manual transmission. It got an oil change every year & was fine until late last year when oil consumption went wild. It was a bad head gasket. Replacement engines were $700 or more, so after a little research I bought the gasket for $8 and spent a couple of hours doing it myself (a first for me in engine repair, it was nice to have vids on Utube to learn). It runs as good as ever. The mower is on it's 3rd battery... I finally broke down and got a battery tender plugged in for a maintenance charge and that has helped a lot.
So if the mower looks like it hasn't been driven off a cliff, starts easy enough, moves & cuts it's probably going to suit your needs. If it needs parts, that's another story depending what it has to have.
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