best lawn mower under 1000 image
justwannak
The yard I mow with the mower I want to convert is almost 5 acres. What's the ideal mower to use for converting purposes?
Answer
Any mower will do.
There is 2 ways of doing this.
First is to take a riding lawn mower and remove the engine and axle. Replace the axle with an electric transaxle (These are quite common these day), look for one that is minimum 1000 to 1200 watts. You will need a motor controller for this and throttle (There are foot pedal throttles.), make sure the controller has a reverse function on it. Then you will need a motor (At least 1hp to run the blades - single blde of 36", 2hp for multiple blades)
or, use a lawn mower that has a hydrualic transaxle (very common these days) on it. This way you don't have to purchase a new axle and controller. With this you will need at least a 3hp DC motor that runs at 3500-3700rpm.
Most mowers now use a belt system to transfer power from the motor to the axle and blades.
Now batteries.....this is where it gets expensive. It needs batteries that have a high amp output(Discharge rate), with a high aH (Amp Hour)..and if you use a 24, 36 or 48DC motor, these can range from $300 to $1000 each. (i.e. golf cart batteries which are generally 6 volts). Or you can go for some exoctic battery packs, but these can run $1200 - $3000.
This is why the major manufactuers like Deere don't have any models really to speak of. It's not the cost of manufacturing the battery riding mower, which is about the same as a gas mower, but it is the cost of the batteries. (Say a $1400 riding gas mower, would be about $3500 - $4500 as a battery mower.)
There are some great sites out there for batteries and motors. You can search under "EV", electric vehichle supplies.
By the way, I am making a riding battery lawn mower for myself right now for my 2 acres.
Any mower will do.
There is 2 ways of doing this.
First is to take a riding lawn mower and remove the engine and axle. Replace the axle with an electric transaxle (These are quite common these day), look for one that is minimum 1000 to 1200 watts. You will need a motor controller for this and throttle (There are foot pedal throttles.), make sure the controller has a reverse function on it. Then you will need a motor (At least 1hp to run the blades - single blde of 36", 2hp for multiple blades)
or, use a lawn mower that has a hydrualic transaxle (very common these days) on it. This way you don't have to purchase a new axle and controller. With this you will need at least a 3hp DC motor that runs at 3500-3700rpm.
Most mowers now use a belt system to transfer power from the motor to the axle and blades.
Now batteries.....this is where it gets expensive. It needs batteries that have a high amp output(Discharge rate), with a high aH (Amp Hour)..and if you use a 24, 36 or 48DC motor, these can range from $300 to $1000 each. (i.e. golf cart batteries which are generally 6 volts). Or you can go for some exoctic battery packs, but these can run $1200 - $3000.
This is why the major manufactuers like Deere don't have any models really to speak of. It's not the cost of manufacturing the battery riding mower, which is about the same as a gas mower, but it is the cost of the batteries. (Say a $1400 riding gas mower, would be about $3500 - $4500 as a battery mower.)
There are some great sites out there for batteries and motors. You can search under "EV", electric vehichle supplies.
By the way, I am making a riding battery lawn mower for myself right now for my 2 acres.
My home was struck by lightening. What type or kind of compensation should I expect from the insurance company?
Stacie
The insurance company is State Farm. I'm trying to find out about loss of usage, property, and stuff like that. My adjuster isn't very forth coming with information. Grateful for any information someone can share. Thanks
Answer
As others have posted....you did not give us much info to go on.
So...here's a quick homeowners for dummies lesson.
Keep in mind - this information is very general. A lot will depend on the type of policy you have.
I will assume you have an HO3 - standard homeowners policy. The main difference between an HO3 and a fire policy or mobile home policy....is the HO is replacement cost and the MH and FI are usually actual cash value.
If you pull your declarations page...you will see a list of coverages- regardless if you have an HO, FI or MH - these coverage names are almost always the same.
Coverage A - is for damage to the structure. This is the resident and things attached to it (lighting fixtures, counter tops, electrical, HVAC).
Coverage B - is for other structures. This is things that are not the residence. So your outbuildings, fences, swimming pools will fall under this one.
Coverage C - is for contents. Contents is personal property. Stuff not attached to the structure that you take with you when you move - ex: tv, microwave, refrigerator, lawn mower, bicycle etc.
Coverage D - is loss of use. This pays to put you up in a hotel if your home is not safely habitable because of a covered loss. So....your house burns to the ground....this will pay to put you up on in a hotel. In order to recover under this coverage.....you must incur the expense. So....if you go stay with mom and pop...it won't pay you to stay with mom and pop. However, you're usually much more comfortable staying with another family member than you are a motel.
If you have to stay in a motel - coverage D will help you with food expenses. It does not pay for all of your meals. That's because....even if the loss never happened...you still have to eat. However there is some increased cost with eating out every day so this can be used to help defray that. But don't think that means you can eat fillet mignon 3 times a day on the insurance companies dime.
Coverage E - is liability coverage. This is for injuries/damage incurred by others as a result of your negligence. This does not apply to members of your household.
Coverage F - is medical payments coverage. This pays for medical bills for folks injured on your property regardless of negligence. Again, this does not apply to members of your household.
You will have a deductible. It will apply. That means that before the insurance company pays your damage has to exceed the deductible amount. Usually a homeowners deductible is 500 or 1000.
As far as a lighting hit goes....it would help if we knew where you lived and what's damaged.
If the lighting hit your heat pump and you are in a cold area...it's not unreasonable for you to go check into a hotel. You can even have your hvac guy look at the unit and give you an estimate to repair. However, don't have him actually fix it until you have spoken to the adjuster. If your hvac guy says the entire unit has to be replaced....State Farm may want to have someone come out and look at the unit. Reason being....the vast majority of claims on hvac units for lighting damage....are actually maintenance issues...not lighting. It is very common for your average hvac man to tell you or the insurance company lighting in an effort to get the insurance company to pay for a new unit. However, its not uncommon for the insurance company to bring in a guy that won't do the work.....is an HVAC expert who has no financial interest...and find out the truth...usually deferred maintenance.
If the only thing that is out is your HVAC....odds are...its not lighting.
If personal property was damaged and is confirmed to be lighting: the insurance company will price out the cost to replace your items with similar times. So...the computer you bought 4 years ago that was a top of the line machine....is now a $500 basic machine. Therefore, you get priced out for a computer with similar features...the $500 machine....not a top of the line machine today.
Additionally, many HO policies allow the insurance company to take a hold back. Meaning they apply depreciation to the amount they pay you. So...if a new computer similar to yours is $500 new...after deprecation...they may pay you $200. However, you have 180 days from the date of the loss to replace the item and present the receipt to the adjuster - in which case, the adjuster will then pay you the amount that was with held for deprecation.
As others have posted....you did not give us much info to go on.
So...here's a quick homeowners for dummies lesson.
Keep in mind - this information is very general. A lot will depend on the type of policy you have.
I will assume you have an HO3 - standard homeowners policy. The main difference between an HO3 and a fire policy or mobile home policy....is the HO is replacement cost and the MH and FI are usually actual cash value.
If you pull your declarations page...you will see a list of coverages- regardless if you have an HO, FI or MH - these coverage names are almost always the same.
Coverage A - is for damage to the structure. This is the resident and things attached to it (lighting fixtures, counter tops, electrical, HVAC).
Coverage B - is for other structures. This is things that are not the residence. So your outbuildings, fences, swimming pools will fall under this one.
Coverage C - is for contents. Contents is personal property. Stuff not attached to the structure that you take with you when you move - ex: tv, microwave, refrigerator, lawn mower, bicycle etc.
Coverage D - is loss of use. This pays to put you up in a hotel if your home is not safely habitable because of a covered loss. So....your house burns to the ground....this will pay to put you up on in a hotel. In order to recover under this coverage.....you must incur the expense. So....if you go stay with mom and pop...it won't pay you to stay with mom and pop. However, you're usually much more comfortable staying with another family member than you are a motel.
If you have to stay in a motel - coverage D will help you with food expenses. It does not pay for all of your meals. That's because....even if the loss never happened...you still have to eat. However there is some increased cost with eating out every day so this can be used to help defray that. But don't think that means you can eat fillet mignon 3 times a day on the insurance companies dime.
Coverage E - is liability coverage. This is for injuries/damage incurred by others as a result of your negligence. This does not apply to members of your household.
Coverage F - is medical payments coverage. This pays for medical bills for folks injured on your property regardless of negligence. Again, this does not apply to members of your household.
You will have a deductible. It will apply. That means that before the insurance company pays your damage has to exceed the deductible amount. Usually a homeowners deductible is 500 or 1000.
As far as a lighting hit goes....it would help if we knew where you lived and what's damaged.
If the lighting hit your heat pump and you are in a cold area...it's not unreasonable for you to go check into a hotel. You can even have your hvac guy look at the unit and give you an estimate to repair. However, don't have him actually fix it until you have spoken to the adjuster. If your hvac guy says the entire unit has to be replaced....State Farm may want to have someone come out and look at the unit. Reason being....the vast majority of claims on hvac units for lighting damage....are actually maintenance issues...not lighting. It is very common for your average hvac man to tell you or the insurance company lighting in an effort to get the insurance company to pay for a new unit. However, its not uncommon for the insurance company to bring in a guy that won't do the work.....is an HVAC expert who has no financial interest...and find out the truth...usually deferred maintenance.
If the only thing that is out is your HVAC....odds are...its not lighting.
If personal property was damaged and is confirmed to be lighting: the insurance company will price out the cost to replace your items with similar times. So...the computer you bought 4 years ago that was a top of the line machine....is now a $500 basic machine. Therefore, you get priced out for a computer with similar features...the $500 machine....not a top of the line machine today.
Additionally, many HO policies allow the insurance company to take a hold back. Meaning they apply depreciation to the amount they pay you. So...if a new computer similar to yours is $500 new...after deprecation...they may pay you $200. However, you have 180 days from the date of the loss to replace the item and present the receipt to the adjuster - in which case, the adjuster will then pay you the amount that was with held for deprecation.
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