lawnmowers?

jeremiah

i have a riding lawnmower its a ariens rear engine model and i was wondering how do i know if the trannys blown or how do i get it out its stock will some one help me figure out why its not moving when i put it in to gear i thinkit might be my kids when the were playing around on it
if i put it any gear it wont move but it will start

Answer
Sometimes my mower did that, I tried jiggling it forwards and backwards while sitting in the seat and used to get it going

Racing Lawnmower?

Q. Im 14 but know a great deal about mowers so dont think im just some stupid kid... im building a racing lawnmower out of a murray mower frame ... im scrapping the tecumsea on board and i have a 12 hp b&s i/c with the govenor removed... i used the one piece flo jet carb on it instead of the factory lmt so i could have a bigger barral with and have a cold air intake system i reversed the stacker pully and will put a 3 inch pully on the tranny. I welded a bracked i cut off of a gocart for throttle lever mounting and strait piped the engine with metal pipe... im working on rewiring it so i wont have any traces of an interlock system. I could use any ideas pics diagrams or any other mods ... thanks

Answer
Im currently tinkering on a 8o's Murray lawntractor, its using ( for the moment) a 14HP briggs OHV motor (stock) , stock 6 speed transaxle ( for the meantime) , golf kart wheels/rims, tapered bering hubs on front wheels. The trick is less drag, then its faster- the stock front wheels w/o berings will slow you waaay down, plus be a weak spot, at least look for some with the internal berings. Currently im using the basic drive belt setup/stock clutch setup with extra tensioner pulleys for no slippage, a 6" cast pulley on the motor, a 4" pulley on the transaxle, it gets me near 30MPH in this setup. Obviously the deck is gone , was all rotten when i bot it. I dont suggest leaving the deck on , specially not in running form- remove the blades/spindle assys- being a bare shell would be okay tho - most racers cut them up and just bolt the sides of the deck to the floorbord( for the look of a deck and less weight).
Next step is a 18HP flathead twin cylender Briggs i got off a 92 MTD - im hooking a 'snap back throttle 'setup on it, using a high flow air filter element ( bypassing stock air cleaner assy), possibly a slightly larger engine pulley, meybe a 1/2" smaller trans pulley. Right now my limitations are in the trans, for speed options, once it lets go, ill swap a 90 degree right angle drive unit in , run a chain setup to a straight axle rear end and have to use a go kart clutch or torque drive setup ( since no tranny will be there) . This isnt setup to race , this is for personal experementation, I do have to add a few saftey issues here tho:
1. Brakes - use a set of GOOD aftermarket go kart brakes, stock brakes wont work at those speeds ( trust me, things come at you mighty fast with no brakes)
2. Id suggest not bypassing the governer, unless its been highly machined to acept the extra RPMs, theyre only designed for 3,000 max RPMs, theres a chance the flywheel could shatter , not to mention how fast parts would fly from the motor overevving it. You can get alot of speed with a goverener on it ( mines still on it and it runs 30MPH)
3. Wear a helmit and saftey gear! I wear a helmit when i drive my tractor- you only come with one brain and it scrambles easy!
4. Have some welding done : Id suggest strengthing alot of the parts on the tractor, steering, front spindles, chassis. You can buy or make a set of front spindles that are stronger then stockers and they accept a go kart type hub for those wheels. A differnt type of steering should be used as well, the go kart type is stronger and better then stock - you dont want to be flying around and have it break on you.
5. Build the tractor low, the lower the better, when its too far off the ground, its top heavy making it easier to tip over on you, the lower/wider the more stability.
6. I have to add this one as well.... common sense. Dont drive on the streets or roads, if you have alot of property, then use it there. You dont want to be pulled over by the police on a lawntractor ( its not a leagal motor vehicle for the streets) , or worse, get run over by a car. If you really want to race them with others, join a lawntractor racing group in your area ( yes they have them) theres specific guidelines to setup your tractor, but its for saftey purposes - use google for one in your area.
7. Id also suggest one more thing - a saftey kill switch - id suggest the one that hooks to your arm( like new snowmobiles/jet skis) and a seat switch. That way, if y slip and fall off the tractor wont keep running.
8. You mentioned a straight pipe, motors need a certain amount of backpressure to run right, I have a straight pipe on mine for now, i plan on using some threaded black pipe and fittings to run it down n under the floorbord - a way to tell how long to make it? At first, make it a bit long, spray some white paint on the pipe and run the motor for a bit, where the paint turns brown is where to cut it. With the twin cylender and twin pipes - it should look sweet, i plan on looking for some chrome drain pipe( for bathroom sinks/ect) to cover the black pipe.
This tractor is actually my second, the first was a older Craftsman with a 14.5HP OHV Briggs, till the 5 speed trans locked up, then i made the Murray. The next one will be a screemer, out of a old Wheelhorse Raider 10, lowered , near full blown racing setup and using a 16HP tecumseh motor with oil pressure ( oil pressured motors are better for racing setups) , plan on using go kart wheels, spindles, steering, full chain drive, straight rear axle and the right angle gear drive ( its a 1:1 unit, used on bush hogs, field mowers).
Kidd

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lawnmowers?

jeremiah

i have a riding lawnmower its a ariens rear engine model and i was wondering how do i know if the trannys blown or how do i get it out its stock will some one help me figure out why its not moving when i put it in to gear i thinkit might be my kids when the were playing around on it
if i put it any gear it wont move but it will start

Answer
Sometimes my mower did that, I tried jiggling it forwards and backwards while sitting in the seat and used to get it going

Racing Lawnmower?

Q. Im 14 but know a great deal about mowers so dont think im just some stupid kid... im building a racing lawnmower out of a murray mower frame ... im scrapping the tecumsea on board and i have a 12 hp b&s i/c with the govenor removed... i used the one piece flo jet carb on it instead of the factory lmt so i could have a bigger barral with and have a cold air intake system i reversed the stacker pully and will put a 3 inch pully on the tranny. I welded a bracked i cut off of a gocart for throttle lever mounting and strait piped the engine with metal pipe... im working on rewiring it so i wont have any traces of an interlock system. I could use any ideas pics diagrams or any other mods ... thanks

Answer
Im currently tinkering on a 8o's Murray lawntractor, its using ( for the moment) a 14HP briggs OHV motor (stock) , stock 6 speed transaxle ( for the meantime) , golf kart wheels/rims, tapered bering hubs on front wheels. The trick is less drag, then its faster- the stock front wheels w/o berings will slow you waaay down, plus be a weak spot, at least look for some with the internal berings. Currently im using the basic drive belt setup/stock clutch setup with extra tensioner pulleys for no slippage, a 6" cast pulley on the motor, a 4" pulley on the transaxle, it gets me near 30MPH in this setup. Obviously the deck is gone , was all rotten when i bot it. I dont suggest leaving the deck on , specially not in running form- remove the blades/spindle assys- being a bare shell would be okay tho - most racers cut them up and just bolt the sides of the deck to the floorbord( for the look of a deck and less weight).
Next step is a 18HP flathead twin cylender Briggs i got off a 92 MTD - im hooking a 'snap back throttle 'setup on it, using a high flow air filter element ( bypassing stock air cleaner assy), possibly a slightly larger engine pulley, meybe a 1/2" smaller trans pulley. Right now my limitations are in the trans, for speed options, once it lets go, ill swap a 90 degree right angle drive unit in , run a chain setup to a straight axle rear end and have to use a go kart clutch or torque drive setup ( since no tranny will be there) . This isnt setup to race , this is for personal experementation, I do have to add a few saftey issues here tho:
1. Brakes - use a set of GOOD aftermarket go kart brakes, stock brakes wont work at those speeds ( trust me, things come at you mighty fast with no brakes)
2. Id suggest not bypassing the governer, unless its been highly machined to acept the extra RPMs, theyre only designed for 3,000 max RPMs, theres a chance the flywheel could shatter , not to mention how fast parts would fly from the motor overevving it. You can get alot of speed with a goverener on it ( mines still on it and it runs 30MPH)
3. Wear a helmit and saftey gear! I wear a helmit when i drive my tractor- you only come with one brain and it scrambles easy!
4. Have some welding done : Id suggest strengthing alot of the parts on the tractor, steering, front spindles, chassis. You can buy or make a set of front spindles that are stronger then stockers and they accept a go kart type hub for those wheels. A differnt type of steering should be used as well, the go kart type is stronger and better then stock - you dont want to be flying around and have it break on you.
5. Build the tractor low, the lower the better, when its too far off the ground, its top heavy making it easier to tip over on you, the lower/wider the more stability.
6. I have to add this one as well.... common sense. Dont drive on the streets or roads, if you have alot of property, then use it there. You dont want to be pulled over by the police on a lawntractor ( its not a leagal motor vehicle for the streets) , or worse, get run over by a car. If you really want to race them with others, join a lawntractor racing group in your area ( yes they have them) theres specific guidelines to setup your tractor, but its for saftey purposes - use google for one in your area.
7. Id also suggest one more thing - a saftey kill switch - id suggest the one that hooks to your arm( like new snowmobiles/jet skis) and a seat switch. That way, if y slip and fall off the tractor wont keep running.
8. You mentioned a straight pipe, motors need a certain amount of backpressure to run right, I have a straight pipe on mine for now, i plan on using some threaded black pipe and fittings to run it down n under the floorbord - a way to tell how long to make it? At first, make it a bit long, spray some white paint on the pipe and run the motor for a bit, where the paint turns brown is where to cut it. With the twin cylender and twin pipes - it should look sweet, i plan on looking for some chrome drain pipe( for bathroom sinks/ect) to cover the black pipe.
This tractor is actually my second, the first was a older Craftsman with a 14.5HP OHV Briggs, till the 5 speed trans locked up, then i made the Murray. The next one will be a screemer, out of a old Wheelhorse Raider 10, lowered , near full blown racing setup and using a 16HP tecumseh motor with oil pressure ( oil pressured motors are better for racing setups) , plan on using go kart wheels, spindles, steering, full chain drive, straight rear axle and the right angle gear drive ( its a 1:1 unit, used on bush hogs, field mowers).
Kidd

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lawnmowers?

jeremiah

i have a riding lawnmower its a ariens rear engine model and i was wondering how do i know if the trannys blown or how do i get it out its stock will some one help me figure out why its not moving when i put it in to gear i thinkit might be my kids when the were playing around on it
if i put it any gear it wont move but it will start

Answer
Sometimes my mower did that, I tried jiggling it forwards and backwards while sitting in the seat and used to get it going

Racing Lawnmower?

Q. Im 14 but know a great deal about mowers so dont think im just some stupid kid... im building a racing lawnmower out of a murray mower frame ... im scrapping the tecumsea on board and i have a 12 hp b&s i/c with the govenor removed... i used the one piece flo jet carb on it instead of the factory lmt so i could have a bigger barral with and have a cold air intake system i reversed the stacker pully and will put a 3 inch pully on the tranny. I welded a bracked i cut off of a gocart for throttle lever mounting and strait piped the engine with metal pipe... im working on rewiring it so i wont have any traces of an interlock system. I could use any ideas pics diagrams or any other mods ... thanks

Answer
Im currently tinkering on a 8o's Murray lawntractor, its using ( for the moment) a 14HP briggs OHV motor (stock) , stock 6 speed transaxle ( for the meantime) , golf kart wheels/rims, tapered bering hubs on front wheels. The trick is less drag, then its faster- the stock front wheels w/o berings will slow you waaay down, plus be a weak spot, at least look for some with the internal berings. Currently im using the basic drive belt setup/stock clutch setup with extra tensioner pulleys for no slippage, a 6" cast pulley on the motor, a 4" pulley on the transaxle, it gets me near 30MPH in this setup. Obviously the deck is gone , was all rotten when i bot it. I dont suggest leaving the deck on , specially not in running form- remove the blades/spindle assys- being a bare shell would be okay tho - most racers cut them up and just bolt the sides of the deck to the floorbord( for the look of a deck and less weight).
Next step is a 18HP flathead twin cylender Briggs i got off a 92 MTD - im hooking a 'snap back throttle 'setup on it, using a high flow air filter element ( bypassing stock air cleaner assy), possibly a slightly larger engine pulley, meybe a 1/2" smaller trans pulley. Right now my limitations are in the trans, for speed options, once it lets go, ill swap a 90 degree right angle drive unit in , run a chain setup to a straight axle rear end and have to use a go kart clutch or torque drive setup ( since no tranny will be there) . This isnt setup to race , this is for personal experementation, I do have to add a few saftey issues here tho:
1. Brakes - use a set of GOOD aftermarket go kart brakes, stock brakes wont work at those speeds ( trust me, things come at you mighty fast with no brakes)
2. Id suggest not bypassing the governer, unless its been highly machined to acept the extra RPMs, theyre only designed for 3,000 max RPMs, theres a chance the flywheel could shatter , not to mention how fast parts would fly from the motor overevving it. You can get alot of speed with a goverener on it ( mines still on it and it runs 30MPH)
3. Wear a helmit and saftey gear! I wear a helmit when i drive my tractor- you only come with one brain and it scrambles easy!
4. Have some welding done : Id suggest strengthing alot of the parts on the tractor, steering, front spindles, chassis. You can buy or make a set of front spindles that are stronger then stockers and they accept a go kart type hub for those wheels. A differnt type of steering should be used as well, the go kart type is stronger and better then stock - you dont want to be flying around and have it break on you.
5. Build the tractor low, the lower the better, when its too far off the ground, its top heavy making it easier to tip over on you, the lower/wider the more stability.
6. I have to add this one as well.... common sense. Dont drive on the streets or roads, if you have alot of property, then use it there. You dont want to be pulled over by the police on a lawntractor ( its not a leagal motor vehicle for the streets) , or worse, get run over by a car. If you really want to race them with others, join a lawntractor racing group in your area ( yes they have them) theres specific guidelines to setup your tractor, but its for saftey purposes - use google for one in your area.
7. Id also suggest one more thing - a saftey kill switch - id suggest the one that hooks to your arm( like new snowmobiles/jet skis) and a seat switch. That way, if y slip and fall off the tractor wont keep running.
8. You mentioned a straight pipe, motors need a certain amount of backpressure to run right, I have a straight pipe on mine for now, i plan on using some threaded black pipe and fittings to run it down n under the floorbord - a way to tell how long to make it? At first, make it a bit long, spray some white paint on the pipe and run the motor for a bit, where the paint turns brown is where to cut it. With the twin cylender and twin pipes - it should look sweet, i plan on looking for some chrome drain pipe( for bathroom sinks/ect) to cover the black pipe.
This tractor is actually my second, the first was a older Craftsman with a 14.5HP OHV Briggs, till the 5 speed trans locked up, then i made the Murray. The next one will be a screemer, out of a old Wheelhorse Raider 10, lowered , near full blown racing setup and using a 16HP tecumseh motor with oil pressure ( oil pressured motors are better for racing setups) , plan on using go kart wheels, spindles, steering, full chain drive, straight rear axle and the right angle gear drive ( its a 1:1 unit, used on bush hogs, field mowers).
Kidd

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lawnmower issues 10 pts?

mrspelley

i can turn it on and start mowing now, i couldn't mow before cause right when it touched the grass it died, the grass is only about 4 in high, k so i put oil in it, and now it starts to mow but the it starts spitting out white smoke, so i kill it cause i don't want it to blow up or anything lol, anyone know what could be wrong with it?? thanks
i dont think it had much oil in it before i put more in, my husband usually does this stuff but he is in iraq so i have to do it and i haven't the slightest clue what to do, thanks to all of you though for givign me ideas :) i appreciate it

Answer
Let's start by checking the oil.(sounds like it is overfull). Then check the connection on the seat switch. Raise the seat. there should be a wire connector that control mower deck if you get off machine. This is a safety that stops the mower in the event of a rollover or if you get off with the mower running. If you weigh under 100 pounds chances are you don't weigh enough to engage the switch.

I am having lawnmower problems?

Justin

i can get my lawnmower started and running, but when i let go of the brake, it shuts off. i know this wasnt very elaborate but good enough. any help?

Answer
seat safety switch faulty?

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lawnmower issues 10 pts?

mrspelley

i can turn it on and start mowing now, i couldn't mow before cause right when it touched the grass it died, the grass is only about 4 in high, k so i put oil in it, and now it starts to mow but the it starts spitting out white smoke, so i kill it cause i don't want it to blow up or anything lol, anyone know what could be wrong with it?? thanks
i dont think it had much oil in it before i put more in, my husband usually does this stuff but he is in iraq so i have to do it and i haven't the slightest clue what to do, thanks to all of you though for givign me ideas :) i appreciate it

Answer
Let's start by checking the oil.(sounds like it is overfull). Then check the connection on the seat switch. Raise the seat. there should be a wire connector that control mower deck if you get off machine. This is a safety that stops the mower in the event of a rollover or if you get off with the mower running. If you weigh under 100 pounds chances are you don't weigh enough to engage the switch.

I am having lawnmower problems?

Justin

i can get my lawnmower started and running, but when i let go of the brake, it shuts off. i know this wasnt very elaborate but good enough. any help?

Answer
seat safety switch faulty?

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Why is my riding lawnmower going off when I put it into gear?

best lawnmower seat image

theplaneti

Yesterday I was cutting grass and my riding lawnmower started going off. I can turn it on and it runs. But when I put it into gear and start moving (even with the mowing deck NOT engaged) it goes off. Sometimes I can drive it for 3 foot, sometimes for 30 foot, sometimes not at all. I can press the clutch real quick to kick it out of gear and it will then stay on. Know what this might be? Also is there a rule of thumb as far as how fast to put the motor when in a particular gear? Thanks in advance.

Answer
well from the sounds of it, your engine is bogging down when you try to move or turn on the cutting deck, is this correct? if it was a safety switch, the motor would cut out quickley as if you had turned it off yourself. but if is cutting out slowly, almost as if it has a loss of power, then it is not a safety switch. if the tractor hasnt had a tune up lately (oil change, new spark plug, air filter) then i would first off do that. next, you might want to check you compression, it could have a valve not seating right which would cause a loss of compression, which in the end would cause a loss of power. but it could also be you need you play with your carburator adjustments a little. if have to look in your manual to find out which valve is the main fuel valve and which is the idle. then just give the main fuel valve a turn either clock wise or counter clock wise and then see if it helps. and if it makes it worse going one way then go the other way. good luck, and with the throttle, no, it does not matter were it is set at, i usually have it 3/4 of the way up, and thats my rpm speed not matter what gear you are in. but if it a newer tractor then you have the throttle all the way up while you are cutting. on the older ones you dont, you will over rev the engine.

John

What's the proper maintenance to revive a lawnmower that's been idle for 4 years?

yummsoju

I have a Craftsman 6.0 HP lawnmower that's been in the garage for 4 years. The fluids were never drained from it. I'm afraid that trying to start it up will damage it if I don't do the right maintenance on it.

Answer
i have been a small engine mechanic for about seven years, so i've seen this problem more than once. start of by removing the sediment bowl, dump it out and spray it with carb cleaner. be careful not to get any cleaner on ANY gasket or seal as they will be ruined. take out the pin that hold the float and remove the needle BE VERY CAREFUL this needle is easy to lose. spray cleaner through the needle seat and rplace needle and float. there should be a stem beside the needle seat, this contains a jet, spray cleaner in the end to clean. reassemble the carb and reattach to motor refeul and replace oil and start mowing. if problem(s) persist feel free to contact me via e-mail. good luck

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where can i get an original seat for my cub cadet model 71 lawnmower?

best lawnmower seat image

a

i am looking for an original seat for my cub cadet 71. the one on it currently is not in good shape and is a john deere one. if u know of anyone with a seat or an online store please tell me.

Answer
Here is the web site. Scroll through for serial # ID's and at the bottom of the page click on parts
http://www.ihcubcadet.com/
Home Depot are distributors but I doubt they sell this part for it

would the safety switch on seat for lawnmower prevent spark?

rokinstar9

i have my johndeere 111 project finally finished and i have been finding a new problem each time.

New question: if the safety switch is not being pressed on enough will it cause the engine to spin but not start, because the engine spins with me not on it, just not sparking the fuel i believe. It might be a bad magneto or something.

So what does the safety switch on the seat do exactly?

Answer
that is correct. safety switch prevents spark. It is made to be so that if you get off a moving mover it will shut off and stop. You can pull out a switch and connect 2 wires on it together. that way its always on.

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How can I kep my dog from digging holes under my backyard fence? She keeps getting out.?

best lawnmower seat image

Angela O

I have a 16 month old Puggle who I recently started letting outside to run off some of her energy (she has a TON) and she keeps digging holes under my fence to get out. I wanted her to have freedom to an extent, insteand of being cooped up in a kennel while I am at work, but I can't trust her to STAY in the backyard. And she tears up anything she gets a hold of when she DOES happen to stay in the yard. Lawnmower seat, GONE! Screendoor on the back porch, GONE! I'm going to have to get rid of her if I can't find a solution to keeping her where she's supposed to be.
It's a chain link fence. Obviously if I had the TIME to get out there and mess with her I would, but since getting her, a lot of things have changed and I am a single working mother so I don't have a lot of "spare time" to be spent with her. And trust me, getting rid of her IS an option, and a very good one at that. She's too much for me to handle on my own most of the time.
I've thought about the dog run. my only problem is my backyard is HUGE!! almost an acre, lucky for me it was 99% fenced when I bought the house! So I'd have to save some money to be able to afford additional fencing. but it's the best idea i could think of as well. I appreciate the responses. I know the number 1 thing for me to do is just section off some time to take her on walks and play. even if it can't be for long periods of time, anything is better than nothing. she's generally a good, smart dog. obviously cause she keeps finding new places to dig out from! I will just have to try to find more time in my schedule to give her attention too.
Well the good thing abotu Madie is that while she IS part pug...she's more beagle. She's got the snout of a beagle so thankfully the vet said while she may still have SOME breathing problems, for the most part all she does is snore.
And another plus is that she DID come microchipped when I bought her. I've thought about the invisible fence but was unsure of the cost to do such a large area, or if I could only do it in the fron area of the back yard to keep her from digging under the fence. It's something to look in to further.

Answer
It really depends on how much you want to spend. What I did was to dig a ditch the size of the run I wanted, say you make a pen or run that is 12 X 12 you would dig a ditch that big fill with quik dry concrete (one section at a time) put the fence sections into the wet concrete and pound them in a little deeper with a hammer so they are stable and level. Most fence sections are a little longer at the ends that's what you are pounding into the ground for stability. You can use any kind of fence sections from Home Depot etc. but I used some rebar and sections of chain link fence. I know this sound very obvious but don't forget to have some sort of gate to make entry and exit easy. Even a pugnacious little Puggle can't dig through concrete or chew through chain link and she'll have her own little yard. A dog house filled with chew toys of her own where she can get out of the rain and sun or just hang out won't hurt either. I don't know if you watch the Dog Whisper but he teaches and I agree that the best way to get rid of all that energy is a long daily walk, you can bond with your pup , lose weight and get healthy at the same time. As for the chewing she is still a pup and is probably still teething. Have patience and Good luck!

where can i get an original seat for my cub cadet model 71 lawnmower?

a

i am looking for an original seat for my cub cadet 71. the one on it currently is not in good shape and is a john deere one. if u know of anyone with a seat or an online store please tell me.

Answer
Here is the web site. Scroll through for serial # ID's and at the bottom of the page click on parts
http://www.ihcubcadet.com/
Home Depot are distributors but I doubt they sell this part for it

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