Q. Hi i was planning to convert a lawn mower and a blower to run on hho gas. hho gas is hydrogen and oxygen gas in a two to one ratio, but the molecules are separate not combined into water. But before i get started i have a few questions that i couldn't find anywhere online. those questions are which is more important in the electrolysis process Amps or voltage and depending on the answer should i wire them in parallel or series and finally i plan on powering these using several different voltage ac dc adapters can i just strip the ends of the wire and wire them in parallel or series.
I was also wondering what material works best as the metal in the water for the electrolysis process. And what thickness of wire should i use to connect the power sources.
I was planning on storing the gas in tanks not make it on sight.
I was also wondering what material works best as the metal in the water for the electrolysis process. And what thickness of wire should i use to connect the power sources.
I was planning on storing the gas in tanks not make it on sight.
Answer
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stanley_Meyer
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/alternative-fuel/gas-mileage/4276846
Popular Mechanics -- it doesn't work.
still not convinced?
http://aardvark.co.nz/hho_challenge.shtml $1,000,000 if it works.
Edit: If you really intent on spending your money, any good conductor would work.
<<I was planning on storing the gas in tanks not make it on sight.>>
Let's look at some science.
that means that you're going to have to run some kind of pump to pressurize the gas.
just leaving it at normal air pressure, assuming that you have a tank that's 3x3x3 ft (pretty big)
and knowing that 1 cu ft = 28 liters, and assuming that your engine is turning over at 1,000 rpm (rather slow for actually running) your tank would hold enough hydrogen to run a 2 liter engine:
28*27*5/(1000*2*2) = .945 = 57 seconds.
that's not going to get you very far.
now that you know you'll have to pressurize the hydrogen quite a bit, that's going to eat up most of the energy that you isolate. In fact, if you want to go any distance, it's going to eat up more energy than is stored in the hydrogen.
Maybe you want to think about this again.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stanley_Meyer
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/alternative-fuel/gas-mileage/4276846
Popular Mechanics -- it doesn't work.
still not convinced?
http://aardvark.co.nz/hho_challenge.shtml $1,000,000 if it works.
Edit: If you really intent on spending your money, any good conductor would work.
<<I was planning on storing the gas in tanks not make it on sight.>>
Let's look at some science.
that means that you're going to have to run some kind of pump to pressurize the gas.
just leaving it at normal air pressure, assuming that you have a tank that's 3x3x3 ft (pretty big)
and knowing that 1 cu ft = 28 liters, and assuming that your engine is turning over at 1,000 rpm (rather slow for actually running) your tank would hold enough hydrogen to run a 2 liter engine:
28*27*5/(1000*2*2) = .945 = 57 seconds.
that's not going to get you very far.
now that you know you'll have to pressurize the hydrogen quite a bit, that's going to eat up most of the energy that you isolate. In fact, if you want to go any distance, it's going to eat up more energy than is stored in the hydrogen.
Maybe you want to think about this again.
Building a Patio - What Are The Steps?
Alby
What are the steps to building a patio? Here is my assumption, maybe you can add to it or tell me I'm crazy.
1) Use a Sod Cutter and clear away 2" of Sod.
2) Lay Down Pea Gravel
3) Lay Down Sand
4) Place the Pavers, Bricks, whatever down
5) Cover the patio with sand
6) Use one of those vibrating things that look like a lawn mower without wheels to pack down the sand in between the bricks.
7) Sit back with a Mint Julip on your new patio.
Where did I go wrong?>
Answer
THE MOST IMPORTANT TASK IS TO "REMOVE TOPSOIL" !, BY HIRING A MINITURE 2.5 TON EXCAVATOR IE;HITACHI ETC,FROM HIRE CENTRE, LIKE "hirequip.co.nz", HAS HERE IN N.Z, AND DIG DOWN TO CLAY. ...(IF YOU LAY ON TOPSOIL, IT WILL GET BOGGY AND SETTLE,WHEN WET)
DIG A 6 INCH WIDE TRENCH AT 2 INCH DEEP AND POUR A CONCRETE NIB WALL (optional) AROUND PERIMETER....15 INC HIGH....TO HOLD GRAVEL AND KEEP TIDY......INC PLUMBING PIPES/ELECTRICS AND DRAINAGE FOR FUTURE OUTDOOR KITCHEN ETC.
FILL TO DESIRED HITE WITH PEA GRAVEL AND USE (60 TO 75 KG) COMPACTOR TO PACK DOWN....OPERATE IN A CRISCROSS PATTERN...UNTIL ROCK SOLID.
ON FINAL 2 INCH OF 50/50 SAND AND PEA GRAVEL, MIXED TO 20 % WITH CEMENT (JUST SPREAD CEMENT IN SAND/GRAVEL MIX AND RAKE IN) THEN LEVEL OFF...THEN COMPACT HARD UNTIL PLATE COMPACTOR STARTS BOUNCING ON SURFACE..
AFTER THAT, CHECK FOR DESIRED LEVEL/FALL .....RAKE AND BALANCE UP THE AREA AND COMPACT AGAIN AS PREVIOUS,.., IF NEED BE UNTIL PERFECT..(THE CEMENT IS TO STABILISE BASE), AND USE COMPACTOR IN A CRIS-CROSS PATTERN,ALTERNATING DIRECTIONS AFTER EVERY 2ND ROUND AND NOT JUST COMPACT ONE WAY.
THE RESULTS OF FINAL COMPACTION SHOULD BE ROCK HARD).
...THEN LIGHTLY WATER (ENUFF TO DAMPEN TOP LAYER OF SAND/CEMENT MIX) TOP TO SET OFF CEMENT BASE......
ONCE BASE IS SET IN 18 HRS..(HARD BUT DUSTY)
THRO 4 MM OF FINE SAND OVER SURFACE THEN LAY DOWN.....OLD BRICKS,HARDWOOD RAILWAY SLEEPERS(AKA, TIES) OR WHATEVER?.
THEN FILLGAPS WITH FINE GRIT OR GRAVEL, THE GRIT SHOULD FLOW INTO GAPS LIKE BIRDSHOT.
NOTE, I CHOOSE ONLY TO USE THE ABSOLUTE MINIMUM OF SAND AS IT SHRINKS AND SETTLE WHEN DRY, AND AFTER PAVING I ALSO AVOID COMPACTING THE PAVERS ETC....AS IT WILL MAKE A TOTAL MESS, DUE TO BASE BEING SO HARD.
THE ADVANTAGE OF GRIT OR SUPER FINEGRAVEL BETWEEN PAVERS ETC DOES NOT BLOW AROUND NOR SETTLE .
....TAKE TIME DON T RUSH...
IF THIS FAILS.....GOOGLE....TAUNTENS OR CREATIVE PUBLISHING AND ORDER A PATIO BOOK.
THE MOST IMPORTANT TASK IS TO "REMOVE TOPSOIL" !, BY HIRING A MINITURE 2.5 TON EXCAVATOR IE;HITACHI ETC,FROM HIRE CENTRE, LIKE "hirequip.co.nz", HAS HERE IN N.Z, AND DIG DOWN TO CLAY. ...(IF YOU LAY ON TOPSOIL, IT WILL GET BOGGY AND SETTLE,WHEN WET)
DIG A 6 INCH WIDE TRENCH AT 2 INCH DEEP AND POUR A CONCRETE NIB WALL (optional) AROUND PERIMETER....15 INC HIGH....TO HOLD GRAVEL AND KEEP TIDY......INC PLUMBING PIPES/ELECTRICS AND DRAINAGE FOR FUTURE OUTDOOR KITCHEN ETC.
FILL TO DESIRED HITE WITH PEA GRAVEL AND USE (60 TO 75 KG) COMPACTOR TO PACK DOWN....OPERATE IN A CRISCROSS PATTERN...UNTIL ROCK SOLID.
ON FINAL 2 INCH OF 50/50 SAND AND PEA GRAVEL, MIXED TO 20 % WITH CEMENT (JUST SPREAD CEMENT IN SAND/GRAVEL MIX AND RAKE IN) THEN LEVEL OFF...THEN COMPACT HARD UNTIL PLATE COMPACTOR STARTS BOUNCING ON SURFACE..
AFTER THAT, CHECK FOR DESIRED LEVEL/FALL .....RAKE AND BALANCE UP THE AREA AND COMPACT AGAIN AS PREVIOUS,.., IF NEED BE UNTIL PERFECT..(THE CEMENT IS TO STABILISE BASE), AND USE COMPACTOR IN A CRIS-CROSS PATTERN,ALTERNATING DIRECTIONS AFTER EVERY 2ND ROUND AND NOT JUST COMPACT ONE WAY.
THE RESULTS OF FINAL COMPACTION SHOULD BE ROCK HARD).
...THEN LIGHTLY WATER (ENUFF TO DAMPEN TOP LAYER OF SAND/CEMENT MIX) TOP TO SET OFF CEMENT BASE......
ONCE BASE IS SET IN 18 HRS..(HARD BUT DUSTY)
THRO 4 MM OF FINE SAND OVER SURFACE THEN LAY DOWN.....OLD BRICKS,HARDWOOD RAILWAY SLEEPERS(AKA, TIES) OR WHATEVER?.
THEN FILLGAPS WITH FINE GRIT OR GRAVEL, THE GRIT SHOULD FLOW INTO GAPS LIKE BIRDSHOT.
NOTE, I CHOOSE ONLY TO USE THE ABSOLUTE MINIMUM OF SAND AS IT SHRINKS AND SETTLE WHEN DRY, AND AFTER PAVING I ALSO AVOID COMPACTING THE PAVERS ETC....AS IT WILL MAKE A TOTAL MESS, DUE TO BASE BEING SO HARD.
THE ADVANTAGE OF GRIT OR SUPER FINEGRAVEL BETWEEN PAVERS ETC DOES NOT BLOW AROUND NOR SETTLE .
....TAKE TIME DON T RUSH...
IF THIS FAILS.....GOOGLE....TAUNTENS OR CREATIVE PUBLISHING AND ORDER A PATIO BOOK.
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